Watches have never been merely utilitarian. Even the oldest examples are made to not only keep time but to be pleasing to the eye and even pleasing to wear or hold in the hand. The best watches are a useful form of high-end jewelry and are much sought after. Here are five essential vintage watches for collectors:
Cartier Tank Cintrée
This watch was introduced in 1921, but was designed during World War I, near the end of 1917. Allegedly, it was inspired by the British Mark I tank. Though the design is nearly a century old, it has a modern look, with a wrist-hugging, curved case and tiny cabochon sapphire atop the winding crown. The blue of this gem echoes the blue hands of the watchface. Cartier only made about 50 of these watches per decade.
The Audemars Piguet Quantième Automatique
This platinum wristwatch has a 38 jeweled movement that’s been adjusted to five positions as well as temperature. When it is turned over, the wearer finds that it is skeletonized, with its movements visible. It has a 21 karat gold-edged rotor and dials not only for the time of day, but for the date, month and phase of the moon. It also has a glucydur balance, a trademark of very high quality watches. Glucydur is an alloy of copper and beryllium and remains stable over a wide range of temperatures. The watch also has a crocodile leather band.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Tradition
“This rare, 18 karat gold wristwatch has 47 jewels and a one minute tourbillon carriage and a tourbillon regulator on the escapement. It also has a cage of polished steel and an 18 karat gold clasp,” said DeMesy. A tourbillon is an extra part added to the escapement to compensate for the pull of gravity.
Vacheron Constantin Malte
This is an 18 karat, white gold, automatic wristwatch with 31 jewels and a nickel finished lever movement. The rotor is finished in 18 karat yellow gold. It has an alligator hide strap with a buckle made, like the watch, in 18 karat gold.
Patek Philippe 18 Karat Gold Astronomic Watch
Though it dates back only to 1992, this very rare and very expensive watch has 39 jewels and a straight line lever escapement. It has a gyromax balance that compensates for heat and cold and has five positions. These include a perpetual calendar, moon phases and leap year. It also has an 18 karat gold buckle. This is one of the watches Patek Philippe placed on the market to celebrate its 150th anniversary. It took four years to develop the watch, and it has 467 parts.
